Family Holiday to Morocco - Kasbahs and Camels Trip Report
The Loving family trip to Marrakech and Essaouria 2008
With my step-son Daniel, we set off on the flight from Heathrow, via Casablanca, to Marrakech in Morocco. Here, we were met by our guide for the week, Khaled, and we joined up with the Woolven/Arnold family, Jill, Richard, James & Sam. Our first night was spent in Marrakech, before setting off the next morning, after stocking up on provisions for the next 3 days, for the Atlas Mountains.
On arrival in Ouirgane, we checked into the "Auberge au Sanglier qui Fume", from where after a picnic lunch by the pool, we set off to climb a mountain! Following ancient Berber tracks, we trekked for about 5 km to the top of the nearest mountain, from where we could admire the views of a recently constucted hydro-electric dam. As if to reinforce the need for the dam, when we returned to the hotel, all the electricity was off, and so we ate by candlelight that evening!
Next day, after breakfast in the open air, we departed Ouirgane on an interesting four hour drive up and over the Tizi-n-Test Pass, at 2,100 metres, which the French constructed in the 1920's. The drop in temperature, at the top of the pass was very noticeable, and it was a pleasure to descend back down to the warmth of the plains, where once again we picnicked in the sun, with tree-eating goats, and heavily laden donkeys passing by, along with the occassional tortoise!
Next stop was Afensou, for 2 nights, based in Riad Auberj d'Afensou, a very rustic location, in a valley besides a dry riverbed. Another picnic lunch, prepared on site, at a pool in the river, where the kids swam with the little fish nibbling at their toes, then went off to explore the canyon, whilst we older ones soaked up the sun's rays.
The Itinerary
- Day 1 - Fly to Marrakech
- Day 2 - Drive to Ouirgane in the Atlas Mountains.
- Day 3 - Drive over Tizi n'Test (pass) to remote Berber village; visit kasbahs en route.
- Day 4 - Easy walks in mountains to discover local villages.
- Day 5 - Drive to Taroudant, explore bazaar.
- Day 6/7 - Drive to Essaouira; visit harbour and old port. Optional camel ride.
- Day 8 - Drive to Marrakech; tour souk and Djemma el Fna.
- Day 9 - Fly to London
Taroudant
Taroudant was a warm, lively town, with a good choice of restaurants in the main square, and many horse-drawn caleshes, which were great value - about £6 for an hour's leisurely trot around the sights, with a couple of stops for photo opportunities. Some good shopping to be had in the souks as well, not as touristy as Marrakech or Essaouira. The Hotel Tiout, our overnight stay, was well situated, within easy walking distance of all the amenities.
Essaouira
The next day we set off for the beach at Essaouira, via a 2 hour stop in Agadir - lovely sandy beach, but real mass-market destination, aimed at Costa del Sol type clients. Still, I managed to top up my tan for an hour! Our arrival in Essaouira, later that afternoon, meant everybody out of the minibus, and pack the bags onto a hand cart, for the walk through the pedestrian-only streets, to our hotel, the rather excellent little Maison du Sud, two adjoining former riads, which have been sympathetically restored, and right in the heart of this bustling resort.
Many places to eat, shop, and just generally browse, with a fantastic row of fish restaurants; right on the harbour, with the latest catch all laid out for you to choose, and then cooked to your taste. Khaled asked if we would like to arrange a camel ride, for the following morning, and Sam, James, Daniel & myself decided we'd probably be able to manage an hour, so, after breakfast, with a strong breeze blowing along the beach, we all jumped into a local minibus, for the 5-minute drive to the far side of the town, where a train of 9 or so camels were sat, resting, completely unattended. The owner untied five from the train, and we climbed aboard our allotted camel, to head over the dunes and on to the beach.
Trailing along the beach, we spotted a small turtle being rolled about in the surf, so Khaled, who was walking alongside, managed to upright it, and it was last seen paddling towards the horizon for all it's worth! The hour flew by, and we were dropped off in the middle of the beach, where a spectacular kite-surfing competition was taking place. We spent the next 45 minutes watching these guys literally fly through the air, up to around 40ft above the waves, hanging on to the strings of these kites. Amazing! After running around all afternoon, after little souvenirs for the family, by dinner time, a light rain had started falling - apparently quite unusual, so early in the year. The following morning, after an early breakfast, we loaded our bags once again on to a hand cart, to walk to the minibus, for our transfer back to Marrakech.
The rain had been falling steadily throughout the night, and, as the topsoil is quite thin on top of solid limestone, the run-off was causing a few problems with the roads flooding around the foothills of the Atlas Mountains. By the time we reached Marrakech, we heard that the road we had just travelled along had actually been closed further south. The weather cleared up whilst we took our afternoon city tour, and by the evening we were able to enjoy the sights & sounds of the D'jemma el Fna, the busy hub of the old town, where we watched actrobats, jugglers and snake-charmers, before taking dinner in a restaurant overlooking the square.
All in all a successful family holiday to Morocco, the highlights definitely being the camel ride on the beach in Essaouira, the calesh ride around Taroudant, and, for Daniel, riding his mule through the mountains.